What were we doing here? Just passing through, on our way from Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh.
Maihar is an impossible place. We waited an hour at a railway crossing (which probably encapsulates the approach of the Indian administration everywhere). This is a squalid spot, but not forgotten: it's a centre of classical Hindustani music. They even have a classical music "band". I suppose every town has its redemption.